A CRF230 - '03 transformation. Carbon fiber vinyl-Hydroprinting

 [click on any image to enlarge]

BEFORE:

After 2 baths & a toothbrush aluminum Brite scrub down to engine:

I tear bikes all down. makes easier to clean, paint, and find all those misc. missing parts -- but essential to get to all those parts that need re-greasing - bearings, axles etc.

Nearing completion:

Spray painting on Cold Days - A Trick

Here's A painting tip I have found works great.

On those cold days shaking up a can and spraying will give you some ugly results. From snake skin patterns  to dripping!

Here's what I have found works to help with those running blues.

Heat up the part you are working on. Not to hot. Just warm.

Set your spray can down, and slowly turn the can by the top as you heat the can. Again we're not talking blazing heat. If you don't have a heat gun - you can use a hair dryer.
If the label is crinkling you are too hot and to close to it. Moderation. Turn the can 4-5 times around while moving your heat gun up n down the length of the can.
I heat the Bottom of the can also. A few seconds only.

Then shake the can.
You will notice the contents go from warm on your hand to an instant COLD.
Repeat the heating process. Each time you'll note the contents inside turn the can COLD again.
BUT- after doing this 5-6 times you'll shake the can and the contents will feel a normal warm.

Warm up your part again and you are all set.

Try it. It works well to promote adhesion- eliminate those snaky fish scales and ease the dreaded Drip.

Restoring Dirt Bike Plastics - ABC- From Sanding to the Clear Coat

 Most of the time when you buy a used bike the plastics are going to be banged up.

  From minor scratches to some pretty major gouging.

*( Click on any image to enlarge)


For the minor to medium scratch problems I do a sanding and clear coat. It turns out pretty decent in less than an hour (minus dry times)

 This is less than 10 minutes using a 240 grit paper by hand (not power disk).

slowly getting scratches out.

 After a cleaning with alcohol I then go to a 600 grit paper (blue)

 I then heat the plastic up and lightly hit any scratches I see with a 1000 grit.

Do NOT get to close to the plastic and Do NOT touch the plastic with the gun or you'll get a nice new scratch -- and start over.

 I then take the 1000 grit and do a wet sanding.

 After a cleaning with alcohol it's ready for a clear coat.

 You can see what everyone calls "orange peel" in the clear coat finish. I go over the clear coat with a light pass of *1500* grit sandpaper to get it really smooth.
Clean again, and then spray on another clear coating.

Finished plastic BEFORE even hitting it with a buffing polish!!

A CRF230 OEM Fender can be more than 29 bucks plus shipping and waiting 5 days to get it. - so being able to fix one up for pennies, and an hours time, is GREAT!!

Once again - thanks to THOSE on youtube  and forums and google for answering HOW TO problems without which I wouldn't know how to begin to experiment on my own with success.